The epoch of the old military pocket watch emerged around the turn of the century and reached its peak between the two world wars. After the Second World War, these pocket watches were hardly ever made. Only the then mass manufacturer Cortebert had produced a few pocket watches in military design after the war, otherwise demand had fallen sharply. The pocket watch had been almost entirely replaced by the wristwatch, and wristwatches became a bit simpler in design, with smaller numerals. The design of the old military pocket watches, on the other hand, was characterized by these oversized Arabic numerals, which were lined with luminous material on the inside. A special distinguishing feature of these watches is that the border of the digits is still clearly visible. Normally, luminous material is applied completely to the printed numbers. In the case of military watches, however, the printed numbers are hollow on the inside and illuminants are only applied to the inside of the numbers. Therefore, the digits had to be so large, otherwise it would not have been technically feasible. There were even some dials that completely dispensed with luminous material for cost reasons, or where only some of the digits were covered with Luminova. The "chemin de fer" railway line, which has a rhombus in some places, is also characteristic of military pocket watches. In addition, all had the seconds field at 6 o'clock. Many military pocket watches look confusingly alike. If you believe the dial manufacturers, the brands did not place such high value on independence at the time. At that time, the dial manufacturers still designed the dials themselves for the customer, and therefore there were many similarities between the watch brands. Today everyone attaches importance to an individual design. In the past, however, some watches could only be distinguished by the brand name, otherwise they were almost identical. Military pocket watches from luxury Swiss brands are still very popular with collectors today. In addition, there were also a large number of relatively unknown manufacturers who no longer exist today.
Specifications:
manufactured watch case
45 mm diameter
52 mm lug to lug
22 mm strap wide
11.3 mm thickness without crystal
Height incl. domed 13.crystal 35 mm
Stainless steel watch case (Made in Germany)
Watch case completely brushed by hand
Polished bezel or polished lugs on request
Domed and anti-reflective sapphire glass (arched)
Sapphire glass case back
Vintage black dial (Made in Germany)
Heat-blued steel hands (Swiss Made)
TRITEC luminous material old radium colored (Swiss Made)
TOP GRADE manual wind movement (based on Swiss Made ETA Unitas 6498-2), 17 Jewels, 21.600 A/h beats per hour, power reserve 60 h
fine adjusted in 5 positions
Precision -2/+8 sec/day, after casing
Shock-resistant according to DIN 8308 Standards
Anti-magnetic according to DIN 8309 Standards
hand-stitched leather bands (Made in Germany)
Stainless steel buckle
Shipped in an attractive trvael Leather case
**** free shipping worldwide***
Delivery time within 4 weeks
Price (NET excluded VAT):
Old Military Vintage 45 Top Grade with buffalo or calf Leather strap * 2,750.00 Euro
Upgrades: (Please click on the text for more informations):
genuine Cordovan leather strap + 25.00 Euro
genuine alligator skin strap + 100.00 Euro
Change to straight crown * free of charge
Folding clasp + 50.00 Euro
GERMAN DESIGN AWARD WINNER 2020
STATEMENT OF THE JURY
Stylish, distinctive and balanced, the product ostensibly utilises contemporary materials and techniques to recreate a design classic. Harking back to the early 20th century, the face is characterised with luminous oversized numerals and a display showing seconds placed at six o’clock. Together with the weathered strap and simple railway line circumference the watch oozes old-school cool.
The movement is available in different levels of refinement (please click on the following link for more informations about the movement):
We also offer this model as "Ultra Vintage", for a price of + 250.00 Euros. The Ultra Vintage version has a hand-painted dial with a special antique finish. In addition, the case is artificially aged and looks like an old and used watch. The aging process can be adjusted individually. The example watch in the pictures below is only very low "aged". We can make the watch look even older.
Watch-review by WatchMAXE
Please click on the picture below to start a video